As a young man, I surfed the East Coast from Virginia Beach, Folly Beach S.C. and various breaks down to Sebastian Inlet, Florida while serving in the United States Navy. My greatest session came in the late ’70s at South Padre Island surfing Hurricane Allen. It was so heavy we had to walk the jetties battling the waves crashing on us. The knarliest, largest pumping drop-in I ever made. Rolling forward many years and I’ve been blessed; burning images from young Groms at Huntington Pier to Pro Surfing in Hawaii.